Nautik Magazine

The sea inspires the reinvention of this classic of Portuguese cuisine

Marinheiro, a classic with a modern twist. PHOTO: Ding Dong Studio / Helder Bento

For more than four decades, Marinheiro has been a part of life in Póvoa de Varzim, on Portugal’s northern coast, just north of Porto. Founded in the 1980s and always family-owned, the restaurant is one of those places that exists outside of trends and that generations of locals know by heart. Now, following a renovation by the Portuguese design firm Ding Dong, it’s unveiling a new interior without breaking with its past. And it’s doing so in a place where fish and seafood still reign supreme.

Wood paneling with brass portholes and latticework, surrounding one of the dining room tables. PHOTO: Helder Bento

The family that owns the restaurant commissioned Ding Dong to rethink the space, but with one clear condition: not to start from scratch. “We didn’t want to erase what people remembered as Marinheiro. The restaurant already had a very strong identity—from its ’80s vibe to its connection to the sea. Our goal was to take those elements and breathe new life into them, rather than replace them,” explains Michael Miranda, the studio’s creative director.

The challenge was to infuse the space with new energy and make it appealing to a younger, more cosmopolitan crowd, without losing the features that have made it recognizable for so long. The restaurant’s ’80s vibe thus became an unexpected starting point, reinterpreted with a richer palette of materials, bolder colors, and a more contemporary layout.

Wood, Brass, and Color

Wood takes center stage throughout the dining room: it adds warmth and immediately evokes the space’s maritime character. Brass adds a subtle touch of nostalgia and craftsmanship, while saturated colors and an eclectic mix of patterns give the interior a playful, contemporary feel. The result deliberately strikes a balance between the familiar and the surprising.

Among the most significant details are elements that are not new. Ding Dong decided to preserve and reuse several plaster pieces from the original decor, which—far from being treated as outdated relics—have been integrated into the new interior so that traces of the restaurant’s past remain visible.

Marinheiro, a classic with a modern twist. PHOTO: Ding Dong Studio / Helder Bento

The ship: felt rather than explained

The nautical identity is just as important, but Ding Dong avoids literal maritime imagery. Instead, it has transferred the idea of a boat to the architecture itself: the restaurant’s structure is inspired by a ship and uses wood, curves, and spatial elements to evoke the feeling of being on board. According to the firm, it is a reference to the sea that is felt rather than explained—particularly significant in a town where fishing remains an essential part of its cultural identity.

A menu that stays true to the product

That seafaring spirit is evident right from the entrance, where a fish and seafood display greets diners, according to the Michelin Guide. For while the design looks out to the sea, the cuisine does so even more so. Marinheiro offers a menu where the quality and freshness of the ingredients are the top priority, accompanied by service that the guide describes as excellent. The menu features dishes such as seafood açorda, various rice dishes, grilled fish, and cod marinera-style. There’s no shortage of meat options either, such as our signature kid or picanha.

Practical Information

Marinheiro is located at Rua Gomes de Amorim 1842, in Póvoa de Varzim (4490-091).

Open daily from 12:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m. and from 7:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.

The restaurant handles its own reservations, so you’ll need to contact it directly.

The Michelin Guide sums up its appeal by saying it is “truly worth a visit.” The Ding Dong studio, for its part, defines the project as “less a reinvention than an evolution.”